The following tools are used for the installation of facade panels:

hammer, tape measure, level, hacksaw with a small tooth, circular saw, drill, screwdriver, building hair dryer (if necessary).

The following fasteners are used for the installation of Fineber base siding (facade panels):

galvanized nails or self-tapping screws with countersunk head at least 30 mm long, leg diameter 3-4 mm, cap diameter 6-8 mm.

Wall preparation and installation of the lathing

The installation of facade panels is carried out on a wooden crate with a moisture content of not more than 15-20%, impregnated with fire-resistant and antiseptic compounds. The recommended cross-section of the bars of the lathing is 45x30 mm. For mounting the outer corners of the battens, the battens are installed vertically at a distance of 10 cm from each outer corner of the structure.

Between the vertical battens of the battens for the installation of panels are installed horizontal, with a recommended distance between the lower lines of the main battens - 44 cm. In order to give the panels additional rigidity between the main battens of the battens, in the middle, it is recommended to mount the rail with a smaller bar height (Fig. 1).

All battens of the battens should provide a flat surface in one plane.

Installation of FineBer facade panels and auxiliary profiles for them

The panels should be installed on the walls of the building horizontally, working from left to right, from bottom to top (Fig. 1). It is recommended that you complete the installation of the panels on one wall before moving on to the next.

Facade panels and auxiliary profiles for them change linear dimensions with temperature. In this regard, it is necessary to leave a distance between the vertical auxiliary profiles and the ends of the panels (during installation in the summer - a gap of 2-3 mm, in sub-zero temperatures - 4-5 mm).

A self-tapping screw or nail is fixed in the center of the perforation hole. The cap of the fastener should barely touch the panel, allowing it to move when the temperature fluctuates. All fasteners are installed strictly perpendicular to the panel. Tilts and bends of fasteners are not allowed (Fig. 2).

When mounting facade panels and auxiliary profiles to them at sub-zero temperatures (not lower than -10 ° C), it is necessary to withstand all elements in heat for 10 hours.

The cutting of the elements of the front panels is carried out using a hacksaw with a small tooth or a circular saw (the disk should be with thin teeth mounted in the opposite direction from the panel). It is necessary to start cutting the panel from the side of the perforations (Fig. 1).

Vertically located auxiliary profiles are mounted as follows: the first fastener is installed in the upper part of the upper perforation hole, the rest in the center of the perforation holes (Fig. 2).

With an uneven foundation line, the facade panels of the lower row are cut from below. In this case, the starting plate is not installed, and the bottom of the panel is fastened with nails or self-tapping screws through drilled oval holes in the seams of the panel. Drilled holes should be similar to perforations for fasteners.

The sequence of installation of the FineBer facade panels and their auxiliary profiles

Setting the start bar.

The starting bar is installed strictly horizontally at the very bottom of the wall at a distance of 10 cm from the corner of the structure (Fig. 1). It is checked by a level that the bar is installed evenly and horizontally. The fastening line of the starting plate should go at the same level along the entire perimeter of the building. The start plate is attached every 30 cm.

Setting the outside corner.

The first outer corner is installed on the left corner of the wall. The lower edge of the outer corner of the first row should be flush with the lower edge of the starting bar. The outer corner is mounted as follows: the first fastener is installed in the upper part of the upper perforation hole, the rest in the center of the perforation holes. It is not recommended to mount more than two outside corners at the same time.

Panel installation.

The first panel is inserted into the starting bar and slides into the groove of the outer corner with a gap of 2-3 mm (4-5 mm when installed in sub-zero temperatures, but not lower than -10 ° C). All L-shaped locks on the back of the panel should be latched onto the launch plate.

The edge of the panel that fits into the groove of the corner element must be cut at right angles. It is necessary to trim the first and last panels in a row (Fig. 1). It is recommended to assemble the panels in a row without fixing them in order to outline cutting lines. The last panel in a row should not be shorter than 30 cm.

Facade panels are attached to the crate through openings located in the second row from the top (Fig. 3).

Installing the last panel in a row.

The penultimate panel is fixed to one fixture on the left side so that it is possible to bend the right side. Next, the last panel is inserted into the groove of the corner element. The panels are bent away from the wall, joined and, by pressing the connecting seam, are pushed to the wall. After which the panels are permanently attached.

Installation of the following rows.

For mounting the next rows, the top panel is installed on the bottom and pushed to the left, connecting with the previous one.

Installation of a J-profile (or border).

When making internal corners, the J-profile (or border) is set according to the drawing (Fig. 4, 5).

Window and door openings:

first, the J-profile (border) is installed on the sides of the window or doorway. Then the J-profile (border) is installed on the upper part of the window or doorway so that the end edges of the J-profile protrude a distance equal to the width of the J-profiles (borders) installed on the sides. First, it is necessary to make incisions in the upper and lower J-profiles (Fig. 6).

When using the J-profile as a finishing element, the part with perforation fixing holes must be cut off on the panel included in the profile groove (Fig. 7).

Joining of facade panels with a J-profile should be carried out in compliance with a small temperature gap.

Installation of a border.

The border is installed on the panel in the place of separation of the basement and the main facade of the building and is attached to the wall (Fig. 8).

Further, when decorating the entire building with facade panels, the next row of panels is installed on the curb. When finishing the main facade with vinyl siding, the starting siding of the vinyl siding is attached over the perforation holes of the curb.

Installation of additional elements.

The fastening of additional elements (shutters, a visor, etc.) over mounted panels of the basement siding should be carried out to the crate through specially drilled holes of a larger diameter than the diameter of the legs of the fastener (Fig. 9).

Not every homeowner allows his financial condition to refine the house with stone tiles or decorative bricks. It is not only the cost of materials, but also the complexity, high cost of installation. To insulate and give the house a more aesthetic appearance, there are special facade panels. Such panels have many advantages, including a low price.

An example of the use of facade panels

A good example of how the facade looks after installing panels

The main advantage is an easy solution to improve the building. Panels are very simple products that have become popular due to their external qualities. They are able to turn an ordinary building into a beautiful and well-kept house.

The difference between facade panels, bricks and stones

The first thing you should pay attention to is the price. Front panels are made of high quality and inexpensive polymer. The production of such panels is much cheaper than the production of facade bricks and decorative stones.

Front panels FineBer

Front panels Docke-R

Front panel color

The installation method is different. If several fasteners and screws are enough for panels, then much more is needed for brick and stone. Stone and brick are laid out much longer, due to the peculiarities of their installation - cement, sand, water are needed. In addition, the stones must be adjusted to each other. The panels are mounted on a pre-installed frame. Under them can be installed various insulation from mineral wool and polystyrene.

What are panels for?

First of all, the panels were invented not only as a means of decorating the facade of the building, but also as a way to hide additional heaters. Their main advantage is that in the space between the panel and the wall, where there are frame wastelands, you can additionally put a layer of insulation.

Insulation and facade panels pie

Unlike decorative stones and bricks, this method of improving the facade additionally insulates and allows you to save heat inside the building. In addition, as already mentioned, the panels are very easy to install yourself, without the use of third-party equipment, materials and people.

Advantages of facade panels

This facade decoration method was invented as a cheap alternative. In addition, it is much easier and faster to install this kind of facade and related structures on your own, than to lay out the facade of tiles, bricks and other materials. In addition, the plastic from which the products are made is durable.

Convenience is also noted during operation. Such a facade is easy to wash with water from a hose. In addition, this method of facade decoration allows you to simultaneously insulate the building itself. Additional components or special panels are used.

Facade thermal panels

A significant plus of polymer panels - giving any form and visual design. Panels are painted for various materials - wood, the same bricks and stones. This is their multifunctionality.

The most important thing is not only the cheapness of the panels themselves, but also related materials. To work, you need a minimum of materials and strength. Among the disadvantages, one can distinguish the susceptibility of some products to mechanical damage. Another drawback is that in case of damage one of the facade components will require not only the replacement of the corresponding part, but also the dismantling of the entire facade. However, it is much better and cheaper than replacing and repairing a facade made of natural materials.

Panel decoration example

Panels mimic brickwork

Basic rules for installing panels

Before installing facade panels, you must select the material from which they will be made, design and shape. In addition, the preparation consists in the purchase of consumables (screws, dowels) and tools (screwdrivers, grinders, screwdrivers). Here there is a major advantage over brick and stone - there is no need to purchase cement, sand.

In addition, the panel itself can not only decorate the walls of the building, but also the foundation. The construction will look strong and, at the same time, an elegant monolith.

Tools for facade work

Next, you should carry out preliminary measurements of the house itself. This is necessary to determine the quadrature of the panels, an approximate calculation of the number of screws and dowels. After measurements, it will be best to outline the approximate location of the panels, creating the frame structure itself. This is a general scheme of work on installing the future facade of the house.

Calculation of facade panels

Schematically, the preparation is as follows:

The most important rule for installing panels is to follow the diagram. The first layer, the first laid panel is the most important part. If it is installed incorrectly, then you will have to redo the entire structure in the future. Use a level to determine the installation angle of each panel. In this way, uneven masonry of the panels is possible.

Types of facade panels

Facade panels: types and variety of materials

Choose for yourself the material from which the panels will be made. Today, in addition to polymer panels, there are metal, more durable. At the same time, plastic retains heat better. At this stage, the question of the appearance of the facade is also decided. The panels can be stylized as wood, decorative brick, stone and much more. There are a lot of design solutions.

These are the most requested and popular panels. There are certain differences not only in the material, but also in the installation of the facade. Each of the types of the future facade will differ in appearance.

Installation of metal siding

Everything starts identically: materials are prepared, the future design is drawn out schematically, installation is carried out. The profiles are installed in accordance with the diagram drawn at right angles to the base of the house in increments of 50 cm. The supporting profiles must be fixed with dowels.

Metal siding: mounting on an aluminum frame

Remove interfering elements from the building facade

After installing the vertical profiles, it is necessary to install the transverse bulkheads. Here, on each side of the panel, you need to make pads for attaching to the profile. There are immediately finished frames, but such structures have a clear drawback - they must be attached directly to the walls of the house. If the wall is made of foam concrete, then such a frame may collapse. Also, the frame is not recommended to be installed on silicate brick. Red brick walls are also not suitable for a finished frame. In addition, such designs are more expensive than self-made.

Installation of vertical racks in a horizontal profile

Aligning the metal frame vertically and horizontally

We put additional vertical racks for siding (based on the recommended sizes of 40-60 cm)

The most common fastening of metal profiles with each other

Siding frame

After the bulkheads were installed, various types of insulation can be inserted into the formed rectangles.

Laying insulation boards

Minvata can be fixed with direct suspensions

The insulation layer is covered with a wind-insulating cloth

Once the insulation is installed, the panels can be fixed to the frame. Each panel has holes for screws. This allows you to hide the seams and not violate the aesthetic appearance of the facade.

Additional elements

Kit for metal siding

Schematically, the installation looks like this.

Stage 1. Charting the house and the future frame for the panels.

Installation diagram

Stage 2.Cleaning the building from unnecessary decor elements.

Stage 3. Making the outer frame on the walls of the building or installing the finished one.

Stage 4. Installation of the ebb, the starting plate and the very first row of panels. A level is used to determine the correct angle.

Low tide

We fasten the ebb with screws with a pitch of not more than 40 cm

Planks set with an overlap

Setting external corners

We fix the inner corner

Installation of the start profile

We screw the screws in the center of the holes, check the fastening density, slightly moving the bar to the right and left

Installation of platbands on windows

Window profile mount

Stage 5.   The following rows are installed, followed by mounting on the frame.

We snap the first panel into the starting bar and fasten it with screws to the crate

We insert the next panel into the castle part of the previous one and repeat the installation

Installation of metal siding

Stage 6. Installation of the final bar, spotlights and decorative elements.

Installation of the finishing profile

In the last panel we make holes with a punch, we snap the panel into the finish profile

Installation of spotlights

Subsequently, for each type of panel, similar installation elements are saved. This is also a plus of panels - their installation is similar, which means that you can easily learn how to install a facade.

Metal siding is a good option for a summer house and a one-story house. Such panels perfectly reproduce the effect of wood. In addition, the products are perfectly processed without unnecessary tools. Easy care - just wash the contaminated part of the house with water.

Metal siding

File to download. Metal siding installation works

Instruction manual

Decorative panels for tiles (clinker)

A relatively new material that gives an aesthetic appearance to the facade and warming the house at the same time. Such panels have two components - the base of the insulation and the outer coating. The coating can be stylized to any material - brick, stone, etc.

Such panels fasten very quickly, due to a simple method. For fastening you will need a spatula, building glue, prepared frame. The latter is not necessary, since such panels can be mounted immediately on the wall. The frame serves to install an additional layer of insulation.

Installation diagram

The panels are attached as follows - a mortar of building glue is applied to the notched trowel. Regarding the mortar, each tile manufacturer indicates the proportion formula required for installation. Glue is applied to the product, which is applied to the outer wall or frame. After, the panel comes off after three minutes, and again attaches to the surface. This method is necessary in order to increase the adhesion strength.

Elements are fixed with glue.

The evenness of the installation is checked by the level

Between the joints of the panel can be glued with building glue, and for added strength, the panels are fixed with screws. The only drawback of such panels is their high cost. In return, you get not only a beautiful facade, but also a warm house.

Installation of thermal panels

Fixing elements

Seam filling

Most likely, this is the best option not only to improve the appearance of the facade of the building, but also to warm. Such panels look most attractive because they take the form of various materials and products from them. The house can turn into a stone fortress.

In addition, in the event of damage to one of the parts of the facade, there is no need to disassemble the entire structure. It is enough to choose the right size panel, remove the damaged one and install a new one.

The main recommendation is to install in the warm season, since the glue may not harden properly at low temperatures, and the entire structure will not adhere firmly to the wall. Each manufacturer indicates on the packaging at what air temperatures it is most appropriate to mount the panel.

Video - Installation, insulation with thermal panels

Video - Installation of facade thermal panels (PUF) with clinker tiles

Plaster fiber cement panels

Such products have several advantages over others:

• the weight of such products is insignificant, there is no load on the walls and frame;
• high thermal insulation. In addition, additional insulation can be installed between the frame and the panel;
• good condensate discharge. The walls of such a facade seem to “breathe”.

However, such panels are not without drawbacks. The most important of them is fragility. Products are subject to mechanical damage. At the same time, the replacement of one panel entails the processing of the entire frame.

Stucco siding

Characteristics of fiber cement panels

Panel Options

The pluses include the installation method. Such panels are installed in the same way as the above metal siding.

Installation diagram of fiber cement panels on a flat surface

Installation of fiber cement siding, scheme

Step by step, the whole installation is as follows:

• preparing the installation site. The facade must be cleaned and dismantled interfering decor;
• an installation diagram is created. The scheme is necessary for further planning of purchases of materials in order to accurately calculate the number of panels themselves, additional elements and fasteners;
• frame is made. It can be wooden or profile. Also, the frame can be pre-ordered. Vertical racks must be installed at a distance of 50 cm from each other. Between them are transverse;

  Panel frame

• the first panel is installed from below. Correct and even installation is the main stage in the work;
• alternately set panels that are attached to the frame with screws;

  Photo - panel mounting process

  Mounting on a wooden frame

  Panel mounting process

• heaters are inserted into the space between the wall and the panel. It can be mineral wool or polystyrene.

Video - Installation instructions for facade panels

Wood siding

Perhaps one of the most expensive types of panels, but the most beautiful. The panels are made of pressed sawdust, processed with special solutions for strength and durability. However, if you do not look after such a facade regularly (once every two seasons), then it quickly becomes worthless. In addition, this method of decoration is suitable only for one-story houses, since the panels are heavy, the frame may not withstand.

Wood siding

As in the case of metal siding, wooden panels are mounted on a prepared frame. Installation methods are identical:

• the frame is made of wooden blocks. But it is possible to install from a metal profile to facilitate the design. The first rack is installed at right angles to the base of the building, and the rest after a half meter in parallel. Between them racks are installed across;

  The scheme of the device of the wooden crate for siding

• a wood frame must be treated with insect repellent and moisture;
• the space formed between the racks can be filled with insulation. Mineral wool is recommended for insulation, since it will not only retain heat in the house, but also allow condensate to be removed;

  Wall covering block house

  Facade cladding technology with wooden siding

• the panels are fixed to the frame using kleimers or screws.

Wooden siding for home decoration

The above panels can be replaced with longer ones. The advantage of such panels is that they are fixed immediately to the wall one after another in a row. The length of such products is 6 meters. This is a faster installation method. But in order to perform work on the facade, you need at least two people. One person will not be able to cope with such work, as the panels may not be installed correctly.

In order to cut off an unnecessary part of the panel, it is recommended to use a grinder. She will most quickly cope with such a product and evenly cut off part of the panel.

The complexity of such products lies in their mass. For installation, it is best to call an assistant. So, the process will be optimally fast and correct.

After installation, the wooden facade is covered with a protective layer of paint

PVC panels

PVC siding is the easiest and cheapest way to finish the facade of a building. Such panels are popular for several reasons: ease of installation; low cost; huge color options. Of the shortcomings, it is worth noting that such panels are made of plastic and any facade will look plastic even at the farthest distance.

This type of panel is installed exclusively horizontally. For work, you need a construction or any other knife. In addition, a hammer will be required. You will also need a level to determine the angle of the panels, as well as a hammer for hammering nails.

The initial stage of installing PVC panels is a preliminary inspection of the house. It is necessary to determine the location of the first row of panels. In the case of new buildings, it is recommended to install panels from the beginning of the foundation. Also, PVC panels can be installed from the initial row of the old finish.

Installation Start

Next, you should install the initial frame, namely: the corners, both external and internal, platbands, the first strip for attaching the panels. Installation begins from the corners. The gap between them and the cornice should not be more than 6.5 mm.

The most crucial stage, on which the future fate of the entire facade will depend, is the installation of the first strip of panels. It is important to install the first fastener strip as correctly as possible, since the fastening of the panel itself depends on it. If the strip was laid straight, then the panel will be flat.

General Provisions

On windows and doors it is necessary to install platbands, ebbs and linings. And after the steps done, the installation of all the other rows of the facade begins. The top panel is inserted into the profile and clogged with a nail, but not completely. Between the panels should be an interval of 0.4 cm, and between other components - no more than 6 mm. In order to avoid vertical overlaps, it is recommended to install the panels at half the factory mark. So the joints will not be visible from the front side.

The sequence of installation of facade panels

When installing the panels, it must be remembered that parts of the products will need to be cut off. For this, a construction knife is used. A ruler and level are also needed to more accurately measure the angle and draw a straight line on the product. We draw a line on the panel in the place where you want to cut a piece, carefully draw several times with a knife. Plus plastic - it is ideal for such manipulations.

Extreme care must be taken, since mechanical damage is very visible on such material.

Such panels are most in demand due to the simplicity of their installation and low cost. In addition, PVC products are installed at various heights of the building, because they are very light. Installation of such panels is simple and does not require much time.

The final step is to install the top row of panels. For the top row only whole panels are needed. In addition, the last panel is closed with a special profile for the watercourse.

Video - Installation of basement siding

If you pay attention to the installation methods, then there are no fundamental differences. There are certain nuances that should be considered when installing the panels yourself:

1. The bottom layer is the most important. An evenly laid or installed panel is the key to correct and successful work. In the case of improper installation, it is likely that the entire structure will be replaced.

   Installation of the first siding panel and proper engagement of the profile lock

2. The frame is an important component. In addition to clinker panels, other products need a frame. It will minimize the load on the walls of the house and distribute it correctly. In addition, in the space between the wall and the tile, thanks to the frame, various heaters can be installed.

   Wooden frame for siding

   The easiest way to warm

3. The seams of the panels are perfectly hidden behind each other when installed correctly.

   Extension (docking) of siding panels along the length

4. Minimum number of tools - a construction (preferably) knife is needed to cut off the excess parts of the panels, a screwdriver, level, ruler. In addition, the installation of panels does not take much time.
5. If you feel the difficulty of installing the panel yourself, without a specialist, just hiring one person is enough. In the future, observing the work, you can easily repeat all the work done for other buildings.
6. A large field for design solutions. Most products are stylized as stone, wood and decorative brick. The house will look rich and elegant.

   Facade decoration

This is what a person needs to know if he independently decided to install panels. The process does not differ in technical complexity. It is necessary to act carefully and carefully to achieve the desired result.

Comparison of different panels

There are pros and cons to each type of facade panel. Everyone has strengths and weaknesses.

Metal siding	1. Take a different shape. 2. Easy to install. 3. Strength. 4. Average price. 5. Stylization. 6. The most durable.	1. For a house no more than one floor, which is associated with weight. 2. The metal bends easily. When replacing one component, it will be necessary to recycle the entire installed structure
Clinker thermal panels	1. Lightweight material. 2. Are completed with a heater. 3. Easy to install. 4. Installation speed. 5. Various decor options.	1. High cost. 2. Subject to mechanical damage.
	1. The cheapest of all. 2. Various colors of panels. 3. Lightweight material.	2. Not the best option for decoration.
Wood siding	1. Durable and beautiful material.	1. The most expensive option of front panels. 2. For a one-story house.
Stucco siding	1. Reasonable price. 2. Excellent heat-saving qualities.	1. Subject to mechanical damage.

Fundamental differences will be in the price and strength of the products. Of course, each of the above options has its own individual characteristics, for which they choose precisely such panels.

Aspects of choosing facade panels

It is worth noting that the panels are designed not only to improve the appearance of the building, but also to hide various kinds of insulation. Moreover, the panels allow you to hide not one, but even two and three layers of insulation. It all depends on the type of product, the height of the frame and the correct installation.

In addition, panels can and should insulate not only residential premises. Such a move as insulation and the use of panels for the facade of a building is used in industrial enterprises. For large rooms, this is a huge plus in the quality of heat storage inside the building. For industry, PVC panels are most in demand because of the price-quality ratio.

First of all, it is necessary to prepare a place of work. It is necessary to dismantle the elements of the storm system, lamps and more. This is necessary so as not to damage the panels themselves and the corresponding products.

The installation of the panels must be neat. They must move on top of each other in order to easily install the corresponding panel in the correct position. After all the panels are installed and fixed, the result is obvious - a flat and beautiful wall.

How to fix siding

It is not necessary to seal the formed overlaps. It would be most correct not to use such sealants, since they will interfere with heat transfer and condensate discharge from the building.

A knife is one of the most necessary tools. With its help it is necessary to adjust the length of the panels. In the case of metal siding and wood panels, the knife is replaced by a grinder. It must be remembered that equal angles are necessary for the correct joint of the panels.

Panel Cutting

Siding cutting

After installing the facade, the most important thing is the care. If you care for the panels properly, the design will not lose its appearance and will last a very long time.

Brick facade panels

Video - House Cladding Procedure

Fasteners.   The base siding FaynBir fasten on a lath with self-tapping screws or nails from stainless steel. The length of the leg must be such that it enters the material of the lathing (base) to a depth of at least 3 cm. The diameter of the leg is 3 mm, the cap is 9 mm.

Base.   For installation of base siding FineBer use a crate. It is placed horizontally, in increments of 44 cm. (Attention! For the Wild Stone series, the distance between the lower edges of the first and second battens is 43.5 cm, between the other battens 44 cm. For the Large Stone and Facing Brick series - the distance between the lower edges of the first and second slats is 42 cm, between the other slats 44 cm. For the series "Natural Stone" - the distance between the lower edges of the first and second slats is 40.4 cm, between the other slats 42.4 cm. For the series "Brick "And" Rock "- the distance between the lower edges of the first and second rails is 41.6 cm, between the rest rails 43.6 cm.) Separately, the battens of the lathing are fixed around the perimeter of the door, window openings, at the corners, along the lower and upper edges of the cladding zone. The crate is collected from 40x40 mm bars, the moisture content of the wood is not more than 15-20%. Previously, the bars are impregnated with fire protection. To make the lining more rigid, additional horizontal slats are fixed in the center between the main bars. All bars and battens of the battens should form a flat surface. Between the bars place thermal insulation.

Basement siding fastening.   FineBer façade panels have perforated mounting holes. The legs of the nails or self-tapping screws when fastening must fall strictly in their center, enter perpendicular to the plane of the cladding without bending, bending. The fastener cap should not touch the surface of the material (leave a temperature gap of 1-1.5 mm, see Fig. 4). Each panel is attached at least five points. When fastening J-profiles and internal corner elements, the step between the fasteners does not exceed 25 cm.

Temperature gaps. Basement siding and accessories for it can change linear dimensions with temperature changes. To avoid temperature deformations, during installation, gaps are provided between the cladding elements (panel ends and vertical profiles, planks). When mounting in the summer they are 5-6 mm, in the winter - 9-10 mm. Westmet experts do not recommend installing facade panels at temperatures below -10 ° C. If the installation is performed at a negative temperature, previously all the cladding elements are kept in a warm room for 10 hours. When mounting vertical strips, profiles, the upper fasteners are placed at the upper edge of the mounting hole, all other fasteners are placed in the center of the mounting holes (see. Fig. 6). These requirements are observed in order to compensate for the compression and expansion of the material at temperature extremes and to prevent their deformation, warping, cracking.

FaynBir facade panels are installed horizontally, from the left edge of the wall to the right, as shown in Fig. 3.

Installation procedure

• starting bar;
• external corners, auxiliary components;
• ordinary panels.

Starting bar.   It is installed on the lower edge of the cladding. When installing, it is located horizontally, at the same level along the entire perimeter of the building (installation lines should coincide at all angles). The lower edge of the strip coincides with the lower edge of the first battens of the battens. At the edges of the walls 30 cm from each of the corners, the plank is interrupted by 30 mm to provide a temperature gap (see Fig. 1). The strap is fastened every 30 cm or more.

Facing without a starting level.   If the foundation line is uneven, do not set the starting bar. Basement siding is mounted on the crate, previously trimmed from the bottom in place. To fasten the lower edge of the panels, oval holes are drilled in their seams, similar in shape to the factory perforations.

Outside and inside corners. The outer corner is mounted on a vertical bar of the crate. The first fastener is made through the upper perforation hole so that the element "hangs" on it. Subsequent fasteners are placed in the center of the holes on both sides. The bottom edge of the corner element should not reach the starting bar by 5 mm. Outside corners are assembled along the length of several elements. They are connected to each other, they are mounted in the center of the perforations (Fig. 3.). Each corner element is attached at least three points on each side (a total of 6 mounts). They are not fixed on the crate rigidly, they leave a gap between the head of the screw or nail and the surface of the corner so that it can move freely during thermal expansion.

The internal corner is universal; it is attached to the crate through perforations on the internal perpendicular joints of the walls. Facade panels are fixed in the grooves so as to obtain an even joint (see Fig. 5).

J profile.   It is installed along the perimeter of the window and door openings, along the upper edge of the cladding as a finishing element (Fig. 6, 7).

Installation of front panels.   The first row is set on the starting bar. On the back of the basement siding are L-shaped locks, with which they are connected to the bar. The first and last element in the row is cut at right angles. When installing one row, panels are assembled without fixing them in order to outline a cut line. They are made so that the last panel is no shorter than 30 cm. The cut off parts can be used as initial or final ones in the following rows (Fig. 2).

The left edge of the first in a row of panels lead to an outer corner. To do this, he is cut at a right angle. When attaching, the lower edge of the trimmed panel is inserted into the starting bar, the panel is pushed to the corner, leaving a temperature gap. The next one is inserted into the starting strip and connected to the previous grooves, pushed all the way, as shown in Fig. 2, 3.

If shutters, a visor, and other additional elements will be installed over the cladding, their fastening is performed in the bars of the crate. Fastening holes similar to perforations are pre-drilled in the lining.

For Fineber Stone Series

For Fineber Stone Wild Series

For Fineber Series "Large Stone"

For Fineber Natural Stone Series

For Fineber Brick Series

For Fineber Brick Facing Series

For Fineber Scala Series

For the Fineber Slate Series

The basement of the building and the entire facade must be reliably protected from the damaging effects of water, wind, sudden temperature changes and from all kinds of mechanical damage. For the external facing of the plinth and the walls of the house, the Moscow company Terna Polymer, founded in 2001, developed FineBer siding.

The polymer coating contains special stabilizers and modifiers that increase its strength and durability. FineBer is one of the best polymer coatings in Russia.

Sheathing skillfully imitates wild stone, brickwork and slate. Basement panels are perfectly combined with modern materials for the decoration of facades. They can be used to decorate individual elements of the building: doors, windows, portals, columns, balustrades, as well as the entire facade.

FineBer siding allows you to reliably protect the basement of the house, to give the building originality and respectability with minimal financial costs

The advantage of FineBer base siding

Panels front companies FneBer from "Tern Polymer" deservedly are in high demand.

Features of the base siding FineBer features:

• The injection method makes it possible to produce siding with a relief, which has increased impact strength and is stylized as natural materials. The polymer coating does not decay and does not become corroded, does not crack. FineBer siding is adapted to Russian frosts.

• Uniform and resistant coloring. Facade panels are painted with two-component water-based dyes, which are resistant to ultraviolet and aggressive chemical influences. Painting is carried out in 2 stages (application of paint and high-speed drying) on \u200b\u200bautomated equipment.

• Water resistance. Mold will not appear on the surface of the polymer skin and there will be no salt streaks.

• Ease. Unlike natural stone, basement siding does not burden the foundation of the building.

• Respectability. A wide selection of textures and color palettes. The color of the polymer coating is as close to natural as possible. Base plating combined with popular finishing materials. The houses, lined with FineBer facade panels, acquire a complete appearance; they harmoniously fit into the architectural ensembles of cities and towns. Siding colors are as close to natural tones as possible.

• Environmental friendliness. The polymer coating does not emit harmful substances.

• Compliance with fire safety standards.

• Easy installation. Installation can be done on their own. Basement siding is used to protect the basement, window / doorways and corners of the house, as well as to decorate the entire facade. Front panels are supplemented with functional additional elements.

• Easy to care. The vinyl coating does not absorb fat, and the dirt is washed off from the sheathing with plain water from a garden hose.

• Warranty period is 20 years.

• Affordable price.

Collections

Wild stone

• colors:, terracotta, gray-green, sand, pearl, coated white;
• base panel length and width: 1117x 463 mm;
• thickness: 3 mm.

Large stone

• colors: terracotta, sand, coated white;
• the length and width of the basement panel: 1080x452 mm;
• thickness: 3 mm.

A rock

• colors: terracotta, brown, brown, gray-green, beige, coated white;
• panel length and width: 1085x447 mm;
• thickness: 3 mm.

Facing brick

• colors: yellow, ceramics, red;
• base panel length and width: 1125 x488 mm;
• thickness: 3 mm.

Brick

• colors: red, brown, beige, coated white;
• thickness: 3 mm.

Slate

• colors: terracotta, sand, beige, coated white;
• length and width of the basement panel: 1137x470 mm;
• thickness: 3 mm.

Rock

• colors: terracotta, sand, beige, coated white;
• base panel length and width: 1094x 459 mm;
• thickness: 3 mm.

Brick facing BRITT

• colors: dark burgundy, dark pink (York), burgundy, brown-black;
• base panel length: 1130x463mm;
• thickness: 3 mm.

Additional elements

• The border is 3030 mm long .. It is necessary to decorate the transition from the basement to the front of the building. It is used to decorate door / window openings.

• Starting plate 3030 mm long. reliably fixes the first row of polymer panels, it is completely hidden behind the panels.

• J profile with a length of 3030 mm. It is used for sealing joints, as well as for decorating corners, door / window openings.

• Outside corners 470 mm high and 115 mm wide ..

Mounting

The installation of FineBer facade panels for the base must be done according to the instructions. For work, you will need: tape measure, level, hacksaw, screwdriver, hammer, drill, circular saw, self-tapping screws, galvanized nails.

Base panels FineBer are mounted on a crate made of natural wood (cross-section of bars 45x30 mm). A metal profile is used to clad the facade of the building.

Mounting on the walls starts from the bottom, is carried out horizontally, from left to right. The starting bar is mounted 10 cm from the corner, after 30 cm, at a uniform level around the perimeter. The lower edges of the outer corners are fixed at the same level with the bottom of the starting bar.

The first panel of the basement siding is inserted into the starting strip and pushed into the groove of the outer corner. Locks on the back of the panel snap into place on the launch plate.

Siding is fastened to the crate with self-tapping screws using perforation. The self-tapping screw head cannot be hammered tightly, a small gap should remain between it and the panel so that the siding does not undergo deformation during temperature fluctuations.

Window and doorways are decorated with a J profile and a border. The border is installed on the panel and fastened to the wall at the junction of the base and the main facade. For facade panels of the entire building, a new row of basement siding is installed on the curb.

Video DIY installation instructions for siding.

Facade panels are used for exterior decoration. Installation can be carried out both with the assistance of a specialized team, and independently.

Appearance repeats the finish with natural materials - brick, stone, etc. The strength of the material allows you to install such panels not only on the main part of the facade, but also on the base.

Installation of a house with the use of facade panels is an economical and practical solution. In contrast to the installation of metal, the installation of facade panels made of plastic is easier due to the light weight, does not require a large number of additional elements. However, installation is fraught with risks. Therefore, it is important to follow the basic rules for installing facade panels.

Key rules for installing curtain wall panels for facades.

• Panels are mounted from left to right, from bottom to top.
• Fasten the screws strictly in the middle of the hole, without screwing them all the way.
• Small gaps should remain between the panels, approximately 2 mm. It is impossible to fasten the front panels tightly!

These rules are determined by the temperature compression / expansion of the panels at different times of the year. It is important that the panels move freely. Otherwise, the facade of the building will “lead”, the panels will begin to move away from the walls.
  On panels “YAFASAD” temperature notches are provided, as well as places for fastening self-tapping screws.

We have provided several design features for the convenience of installing facade panels with your own hands. The video will tell about them.

Transportation and storage

In order for facade panels and additional elements to serve you as long as possible, you must follow the rules of transportation and storage:

• Facade panels can only be transported in covered transport, while packs of products should be placed in the back of the truck and not protrude beyond its length;
• During transportation and storage, the products must be stacked in the following order: at the bottom are bundles with panels, on them are bundles with additional elements;
• When unloading it is forbidden to throw packs of products;
• The panels can only be stored and transported in their original packaging, in a dry room, protected from direct sunlight;
• Storage rooms should be well ventilated;
• Storage temperature should fall in the range from -65 ° С to + 50 ° С;
• It is forbidden to store packs of products near heating appliances;
• If you plan to store facade panels for a long time, you should store them on racks or in pallets. The maximum number of packages in height is 5 pieces.

Necessary tools

Installation of facade panels does not require a large number of tools. It is enough to prepare a tape measure, level, rope, hammer, nails, scissors for cutting panels, screws, a screwdriver, screwdriver.

Installation steps

Surface preparation

One of the advantages of facade panels is the year-round installation option. However, in severe frosts (-15 ° C and below), the installation of plastic facade panels is prohibited. You can install this type of cladding on any type of building.

First you need to free the facade from decor, debris, old coatings - everything that can interfere with installation. Then you should decide where the first row of panels will be located. If the house is old - you can take as a guideline the beginning of the last decoration. If the facade is installed on a new house - we recommend installing facade panels from the beginning of the foundation.
  Next, we mark the bottom edge of the facade. This will require a cord and level. With their help, draw a horizontal line around the entire perimeter of the house.

Installation of the lathing

There are two types of crates: wooden and metal. If you decide to use wooden slats - make sure that they are treated with special impregnations to protect against fire, pests, mold, rot. The metal crate is more durable, its design provides better ventilation of the facade. We recommend using Grand Line GK-profile for installation of front panels. The optimum metal thickness is 0.5 mm.

The battens are installed vertically (Fig. 1). The pitch between the axes is 300-400 mm (Fig. 2). The lath is laid completely around the window openings, at the corners, at the lower and upper points of the facade.

If you plan to install facade panels with insulation, put it in the spacer between the battens of the battens.

Installation of additional elements

Before starting the installation of facade panels, it is necessary to mount decorative elements. They surround doorways, windows, corners. For the design of the internal corners, two universal 7/8 inch J-profiles are required. The J-profile is also installed along the top edge of the facade to install the final row of panels.

Installation of the start profile

The starting bar is installed horizontally on the bottom of the facade, which you noted earlier. In this case, you need to indent about 10 cm from the corners for the future installation of corner strips.

Mounting a universal J-profile

For corner design

For arranging the inner corner, you will need 2 universal J-profiles. Installation should begin from above. Fasten the self-tapping screws in the special holes without pushing them all the way. Use the level to check if the profiles are even. Fix the additional element along the entire length with self-tapping screws in increments of 150-200 mm.

For edging the top edge

The J-profile must be fixed with screws on the crate in the upper part of the facade. The step of the screws is 300-400 mm (corresponds to the step of the crate).

Installation of corners of front panels

To install the radius bar, it is necessary to screw the screws into the upper parts of the panel on both sides. Make sure that the bar hangs evenly and fasten the screws along the entire length of the additional element with a pitch of 200-400 mm. Then install the set-up straps in the radius bar (Fig. 3, 4, 5) and fix them on the wall with self-tapping screws (Fig. 6).

Place the starter elements on the bottom of the facade. They should be arranged in increments of 300-400 mm (along the battens of the crate) (Fig. 7).

Do-it-yourself installation of facade panels. Step-by-step instruction

Installation of the final panel in a row

Top row mounting

Most likely, for mounting the panels of the upper row, you will have to cut them in height. To do this, measure the distance from the previous row to the J-profile (its inner part). Subtract 5-7 mm from this figure (Fig. 21). Mark this distance on the new panel and trim the excess.

Now the finished panel needs to be installed in the panel lock of the previous row. Then gently bend and insert into the J-profile (Fig. 22, 23). Repeat the same steps with other panels.

Facade Care

• You can wash the facade with water from a hose.
• Do not use to clean high pressure washers.
• It is also forbidden to use harsh chemicals and abrasive cleaners.

Installation of facade panels is perhaps the most crucial stage in the decoration of your home. Not only the appearance and protection of the main building material, but also the guarantee depend on proper installation. We remind you that 50 years of service can only be ensured if the facade panels are installed correctly. Alas, some homeowners, trying to save money, trust the installation to unprofessional workers, who often do not even read specially designed recommendations for the installation of facade panels. As a result, unsecured thermal gaps, tightly bolted to the facade of the panel, not having the ability to expand and narrow under the influence of temperatures. One of the most common mistakes in the installation of facade panels is to neglect the creation of the crate.

Pay attention again! Installation of wall panels is the most important stage of work on your home. Read the installation instructions carefully. Use original profiles and manufacturer recommended tools and materials.

Preparation of the wall surface for installation and installation of the lathing

   Döcke-R facade panels can be mounted at any time of the year, with the exception of severe frosts (temperatures below -15 ° C). Panels are installed on any buildings with any kind of walls, on buildings under construction, built and have been in operation for a long time. All facade work must be completed before the installation of facade panels.

Install windproofing, if it is provided by the project. If you plan to install additional thermal insulation, mount an additional crate for insulation.

The crate for facade panels can be wooden (in this case, it is necessary to pre-treat it with special bioprotective compositions) or from special galvanized profiles designed for facade work.

The lath is installed vertically / horizontally. The horizontal crate is installed under the start profile, J-profile, horizontal places for fastening the panels. The vertical crate is installed at the corners and vertical places of fastening the panels. The step of the crate is determined based on the size of the installed panels. All installed crate should provide a flat surface.

Basic installation rules

Due to the fact that facade panels tend to expand and contract when the temperature changes, the following rules must be followed during installation:

• self-tapping screws are screwed strictly horizontally in the center of the nail hole;
• be sure to leave a small gap between the screw head and the panel / profile (not more than 1 mm);
• insert one panel into another until it stops, providing guaranteed thermal clearance;
• installation at a temperature not lower than -15˚С.

Setting the start profile

In order to proceed with the installation of panels, it is necessary to measure the basement of the building “horizontally”, determining the lowest and highest points of the wall above the horizon. This can be done using the water level. After the water in the level is horizontal, mark it with a pencil on the wall. This is done from each corner of the building, bypassing it around the perimeter. You must come to the same point from which you started. From pencil marks measure the distance to the bottom of the wall.

If the distance from the tags to the ground is different - the foundation is uneven. In this case, with small deviations, it is better to make a blind area parallel to the previously measured horizontal line and mount the start profiles, as described above. If this is not possible, then the need for a starting profile in these places disappears. Then you need to determine at what height it is better to place the second row of panels.

From this level, mark the required size and cut the lower parts of the panels to the desired size. Install them, securing them in the upper horizontal and lateral vertical holes. If necessary, you can make additional nail holes, similar to the factory ones in the lower part of the panels. It is better to do this in places of the “seam” so that the self-tapping screw is less noticeable.

Attention!   It is not possible to fix the panel with a self-tapping screw by screwing it directly into the panel (outside the nail hole), as this can lead to deformation of the product over time.

Installation of a universal J-profile

The use of the front J-profile in the interior corner decoration:

• Prepare two front J-profiles of the required length, install them in the inner corner of the building.
• In the upper part of the upper nail hole, install a self-tapping screw, the rest of the self-tapping screws are installed in the center of the nail holes. The installation step should be 150-200 mm.

Using the front J-profile as a border for the upper part of the panels:

• To complete the installation of panels, fasten the facade J-profile on the crate at the top installation point (in the case of finishing with basement siding of the pediment - under the roof overhang).
• Fix the facade J-profile by analogy with the installation of all used elements of the system. In order to get the panel a universal J-profile, it is enough to bend it.

Installation of facade panels Döcke-R

When the house is built, you should take care of the facade decoration, which should be not only beautiful, but also functional. Today, there is a huge variety of materials that protect the walls of a frame house from moisture, natural precipitation, and wind. The most common material today can be called facade panels.

Installation of front panels

The surface on which the facade panels are mounted must be clean (without fungal and mold formations), as well as smooth and without cracks - they must first be eliminated.

Around the perimeter is installed a crate made of metal treated or treated with an anti-corrosion spray, for example, zinc.

The formed frame creates and provides a flat surface. Insulation or is added to the resulting voids. This is necessary for the so-called effect of the heat shield, it effectively retains heat indoors.

Installation of the first front panel

FROM
  the tart bar is fixed at the lowest point of the building, it is necessary to leave 10 cm from each edge of the wall to mount the outer corners there. It is important that its position remains horizontal, since the rest of the panels will be focused on it.

Sometimes you need to trim the panels of the first row, for this you can use a circular saw, in such situations, the starting profile is not used: the panels are only fastened through the front side with 5 nails or more, if necessary. A separate hole is drilled under each nail.

Subsequent rows of facade panels should be installed with a small distance so that the material has room for expansion.

Often the top row also needs trimming, do not violate the integrity of the protective layer in this case, otherwise the facade panels will not only look ugly, but their technical characteristics will also deteriorate.

Types of facade panels and the specifics of their installation

• Fibropanels and Japanese Fibropanels

Consist of reinforcing fibers and mineral fillers. They are characterized by a high level of resistance to external influences and good flexibility.

  Such panels are attached to an already attached frame (if we are talking about 14 mm panels), on or to the supporting frame of a building (panels 16 mm or more). Thin panels are mounted on galvanized self-tapping screws, thicker ones are fixed with clamps.

Fiber panels are installed on the frame, which, in turn, is fixed to the wall on the brackets through paronite (it will help minimize the load on the frame structure at the time of upset). Between the cells of the frame is placed, on top of which lay a vapor barrier film.

Additional workflow levels:   basement tide is fixed to the frame (above the blind area by 5-10 cm);

Kleimers for installation of plates are placed on all vertical guides.

A suture bar is made to correctly position the plates relative to each other.

Fiber plates are put on the kleimers located below and are fixed with fasteners. All joints are processed and painted in the color of the panels.

• Installation of plastic panels.

  For their installation, it is also necessary to remove the previous decoration of the house, remove irregularities. Then the walls need to be marked with lines clearly vertically and horizontally at a distance of 50-70 cm. It can be wooden or metal, it is strengthened in the region and. The grid cells are also filled with insulation and film.

The specifics of the work is that the plastic panels are mounted from the corner of the building and from the bottom row, by connecting the locks and fastening them to the screws.

• Installation of metal panels. Facade (siding)

  Differ in the increased level of durability and a polymeric sheeting.

The construction of the house is completed, the interior decoration is also. It remains to "dress" the house outside. And here the question arises: which is better: clinker brick or tile, vinyl siding lining or full-fledged stone cladding? The answer is simple: siding. It is sheathing with plastic panels that the owner of the house can do, and it is she who is considered the easiest option for facade decoration.

Plastic panels as decoration material

Owners of private homes seek to ennoble their home, while spending as little money as possible, therefore resorting to siding wall decoration. Plastic is a practical material from the point of view of homegrown construction masters, and therefore it is used both for internal and external wall decoration. Today, PVC panels (polyvinyl chloride) are common, using which you can not only hide wall defects, but also decorate the facade of the house.

Plastic false lining is a great option for decorative decoration of a private house: the color of the panels allows you to use them as a wooden paneling

pros

• A variety of colors - siding from PVC panels involves not only imitation of lining, but also natural material (stone, wood, granite).
• Affordable cost.
• Aesthetics - the facade of the house looks neat compared to conventional plaster. In addition, the panels will hide any defect in the surface of the walls and even an uneven wall.
• Convenience and speed of installation - due to its light weight, plastic panels are quickly attached to the walls, easy to process (cut).
• Good technical characteristics - moisture resistance, frost resistance, resistance to fungal infections, low flammability.
• Durability - plastic panels are resistant to fading, can last several decades (10-15 years according to the manufacturers warranty).
• Flexibility.

Minuses

• Poor impact resistance - they are easy to damage during transportation; when handling material, you should handle it as carefully as possible.
• Not all types of PVC panels can be mounted directly to the wall - for installation, as a rule, installation of a crate is required.
• Harmful discharge during burning.

Note: the strength properties of the panels will depend on the thickness of the sheet and the number of stiffeners. Therefore, to check the strength, you should press on the surface of the material: the more stiffening ribs in the sheet, the less likely it is to bend the sheet and the longer is the life of the finish.

Panel Views

All plastic panels for the exterior decoration of the walls of the house can be combined into several groups:

1. Stone finish.   It is clear that natural stone for wall decoration is quite an overhead pleasure, therefore, PVC panels used as cladding will become a good substitute. This means that plastic with imitation of natural stone will look no worse, and the advantages are obvious: lighter weight and less load on the foundation of the house, excellent decor.
2. Brick finish.   Ordinary decorative brick, clinker brick or brick tile - these materials are no less expensive than natural stone, but plastic can easily simulate them. Today, manufacturers offer two types of decorative plastic panels - a homogeneous and combined structure. In the first case, the material is homogeneous, has a uniform color and has no layers. In the second case, the panel has an additional insulation layer, as a rule, it is expanded polystyrene. The advantage of this finish is that it can be fixed at any temperature (unlike a brick).
3. Wood finish.   This is the so-called lining - the most common material that imitates wood. You can use a false lining for the sheathing of a house for any architecture of the house: it is easy to mount, there are no difficulties with installation.

In construction stores today they offer various imitations of finishes: for brick, stone, lining and even decorative plaster

Plastic panels for finishing the basement (foundation) should be allocated as a separate group - they must be stronger and thicker, be sure to be mounted with insulation and have increased moisture resistance.

Material quantity calculation

Not only the economical purchase of material, but also the correctness of quick installation will depend on the correct calculation.

Let's look at an example of how to correctly calculate the material. A house plan is being prepared, indicating all sizes — the total length of the walls, the presence, number and size of the openings of windows and doors, the presence of a basement, etc. According to calculations, siding will be acquired - the area of \u200b\u200bthe door and window openings is subtracted from the total area of \u200b\u200bthe house, the figure obtained and will be the necessary amount of material.

Smat \u003d (Shome - Sokon - Sdover) + 5%, where

Smat, Sdoma, Sokon, Sdveri - the area of \u200b\u200bmaterials, walls of the house, windows and doors, respectively, and 5% - the addition of material to the total area.

To determine the area of \u200b\u200bthe wall for cladding, it is enough to know the dimensions of the wall, window and door (if available)

Thus we get:

Smat \u003d (Shome - Sokon - Sdoor) + 5% \u003d (3.8m * 7.2m-1.6m * 2.2m) + 5% \u003d 25.032, or 25.03 m 2 - this is the amount of material needed for finishing

If it is additionally planned to trim the base / foundation of the house and pediment, then their areas are calculated in the same way: the foundation is calculated by the area of \u200b\u200bthe rectangle, the pediment by the area of \u200b\u200bthe triangle.

Necessary tools and materials

Despite the ease of installation of plastic panels, you will still need minimal skills in tool ownership:

1. Electric drill, screwdriver, electric jigsaw. They will cut the panels of the required size, with an electric drill and a screwdriver, the panels will be attached to the crate or walls.
2. Miter box for a jigsaw. This "auxiliary" tool will allow you to cut all panels of the same length and chamfer.
3. Construction level, stapler. The level of equality of panel application will be measured by a level, and the stapler will attach layers of heat, hydro and vapor barrier.
4. The panels themselves are the right color.
5. Consumables: fasteners, angles, screws, brackets, insulation, waterproofing, vapor barrier film.
6. Profiles: start and finish (necessary for fixing plastic siding)
7. Decorative corners, components.

Mounting Methods

There are several of them: on staples, liquid nails, self-tapping screws, clamps.

The type of fastening will depend on the weight of the panel and the presence / absence of the crate

The panels are fastened with liquid nails to a perfectly flat surface, and special glue for PVC panels is also used instead.

Self-tapping screws or brackets can be used to fasten the panels both to the crate, and without it - directly to the wall. For fixing, a screwdriver is required.

Clamping is akin to fastening with screws. The panels are fixed to the frame reliably and firmly.

Step-by-step instruction

Preparatory work

At this stage, the preparatory work comes down to removing the old finish (if any) from the walls, filling up potholes, chips, cracks in the walls, minimally plastering the surface and treating the walls with a primer with water-repellent properties. It’s not necessary to bring “prettiness”, because all wall defects will disappear behind the panels.

Also, preparatory work includes marking the surface of the walls for installing the lathing frame.

Note: when covering the walls with siding panels, a prerequisite is the installation of a vapor and waterproofing layer with insulation.

Frame installation

Here it is necessary to determine the type of frame - made of wood or metal profiles. Both the one and the other option are the same in the way of the device, the difference is only in cost and durability. So, before making a frame from a bar, it is necessary to impregnate all the material with an antiseptic composition - it will protect the tree from harmful insects and fungal infections. Of course, a wooden frame can be cheaper at the initial stage of construction, but it will last less than a metal one.

The frame from a metal profile, and even from galvanized, will cost more - but it will have a longer life. In addition, there is no need for the cost of additional processing of the structure.

According to the marking, the main rails are first attached to the walls - they will become supporting, on which the crate itself will be installed. The crate is a honeycomb in the cells of which insulation material is laid, a hydro- and vapor barrier layer.

Note: despite the seemingly expensive construction, additional layers increase the thermal insulation and noise insulation characteristics of the house.

The frame (wooden or metal) is fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws, the attachment points are necessarily treated with an antiseptic (for a wooden frame) or with a primer (for metal profiles). The step of the crate is 0.3 - 0.5 m, all ends must be fixed in order to avoid "sagging". Mounting step - 25-30 cm.

Laying "interlayer"

The frame of the crate is arranged so that the panels are mounted on the wall with some "air" gap, or interlayer. This gap is necessary so that the surface of the main wall does not rot, condensation does not accumulate on it, and the frame space is ventilated.

In addition, it is necessary to install thermal insulation (as a rule, it is either foam sheets or mineral or glass wool) and a waterproofing layer (so that the wall surface does not "leak" when the temperature changes inside and out). You can also put a vapor barrier film - it additionally prevents the formation of condensation on the surface of the main wall.

After the layer has filled the honeycomb of the frame, you can begin to fix the finishing material.

Installation of panels on the crate

The panels themselves have two edges, on the one hand - a shelf that is attached to the frame, on the other - a “lock” shelf, it is she who performs the coupling of two adjacent panels.

Important: the covering of the entire wall will depend on how carefully the first panel is fastened, it will become the guide for the entire decoration.

Plastic panels are attached to the crate and at the same time snap into place (with a lock connection)

The sequence of work during the installation of the panels is as follows:

1. Profiles are mounted on the installed crate - start and finish. The first panel is laid in the lower profile, then bends slightly and winds up in the upper profile. After installation, the panel is fixed with screws. The next panel is installed in the same way, laying the lower part in the lower profile, the upper one in the upper one and fixing the panels along the crate.
2. The last panel must be cut to the desired length from the side of the large shelf. Next, the panel enters into a niche prepared for it and is closed with a decorative corner.

Note: the mounting method described above is for panels with a vertical mounting method. With the horizontal method of laying panels, all actions are repeated, only the main and guide profiles are attached to the beginning and end of the wall.

In both cases, the deflection of the panels is carried out across the lathing.

Wall cladding can be fastened with self-tapping screws, and nails, and even staples or liquid nails. However, experts advise using hidden fasteners with clamps - with their help, panels are sewn to the crate. By the way, if the walls of the house are built of brick, foam concrete or are log, fastening siding with a clasp will be the best way - fasteners will not damage the material and will become quite reliable.

Tip: if the walls of the house have sufficient thermal insulation, then laying insulation material is not required. Only hydro and vapor barrier layers can be fixed to the frame.

Panel mounting without crate

There are cases when the device of the crate is impractical, and you have to mount the panels directly on the wall of the house. How to make the skin in this case, what are the advantages and disadvantages of this method of decoration?

Benefits:

• Saving time and money for lining - no frame device is required, no troubles with a crate are needed. The panels are fixed directly to the wall.
• The method is suitable for wooden frame or panel houses - the walls of such a house are multilayer, the insulation is already “sewn” into them and additional thermal insulation is not required.
• In addition to plastic panels, the function of which is reduced to decoration, the panel walls of such houses can be additionally sheathed with composite sheets. Sheets perform the function of support, providing strength and stiffness of the walls, so siding sheets can be installed directly on the wall of the house.

Disadvantages:

• The absence of a gap between the casing and the main wall - a non-ventilated wall is more likely to undergo fungal infection, rot and decay.
• The frameless method of attaching plastic panels is only suitable for perfectly smooth walls.

The installation of panels by the frameless method is somewhat simplified, in contrast to the fastening of panels to the crate.

Mounting is carried out directly on the wall, mounting is frameless

Tip: despite the seeming perfect evenness of the walls, they must be hung with a plumb line - in order to avoid deviations from the verticals.

After checking the evenness of the walls, you can begin to mark them. First, the boundary with which the starting trim panel will begin is marked.

Important! To start fixing the siding frameless method is possible only after sheathing the base. In this case, the ebb is first set for the foundation.

In addition to low tides, frameless installation uses various decorative accessories - with its help you can hide defects and joints of panels, beat the transitions from walls to openings.

Final work

After the panels are fixed, no less responsible work begins - decorative design of joints, corners, framing of window and door openings. Here you can show your taste. So, to highlight certain areas (for example, windows and doors), you can use decorative trims and corners a tone darker than the color of the main skin. The same applies to the sheathing of the foundation (base): the bottom can be decorated in dark colors, and the frame - in light, contrasting.

A good solution was the contrast of the foundation with the facade finish and the framing of the tides darker than the wall cladding

The paneling of the walls of the house, like any other work, has a certain sequence of actions. To make the correct installation of siding, you must follow the recommendations of the manufacturers.

The quality of the finish will largely depend on which sheets were purchased. So, vinyl siding is not worth buying if:

• stiffeners are deformed, even slightly;
• the coating is at least slightly different in tone;
• on the surface there are defects or minor scratches;
• panels do not match in size.

1. It is impossible to work with cold material - otherwise, the sheet may be damaged without the possibility of restoration.
2. Previously, you should prepare a "working area" - to clean the surface of the walls, if possible, polish cracks.
3. When cutting panels of the desired length, the sheets must be kept face up. In this case, the protective film can be removed after the panels are fixed on the wall.
4. When attaching the panels to the crate, special thermal washers are used, laid under the fasteners - they are used as equalizers for plastic. Attachment points in hot weather can be deformed, the plastic will crack and can easily fly off from the crate.
5. If it is planned to lay electrical wiring under the panels, then it is necessary to pre-mark the cable laying places and arrange special grooves for it from flexible strips for it.

Video: how to sheathe the walls of the house with siding under the stone with your own hands

Work with vinyl siding for lining, at first glance, is simple. However, when installing the panels, you should be extremely careful, since one incorrectly fixed panel can subsequently skew the entire finish. Therefore, it is advisable to adhere to all recommendations for working with plastic panels, and if such work is carried out for the first time, then you should definitely consult with specialists.